Home of the $0 FREE Service Call Club | 0% Interest for 24 Months

Home of the $0 FREE Service Call Club | 0% Interest for 24 Months

Home of the $0 FREE Service Call Club | 0% Interest for 24 Months

A man in a polo shirt stands indoors, adjusting a switch on an open electrical panel while performing AC troubleshooting. The room features wooden floors and a hallway visible in the background.
A man in a polo shirt stands indoors, adjusting a switch on an open electrical panel while performing AC troubleshooting. The room features wooden floors and a hallway visible in the background.

My AC Won’t Turn On: Troubleshooting Before You Call a Technician

When your AC system won’t turn on at all — no fan, no compressor, no response to thermostat changes — the cause is either an interruption in the electrical supply reaching the system (tripped breaker, blown fuse, safety switch activation, thermostat failure) or a failure of a startup component within the system itself (dead capacitor, burned contactor, failed control board, or seized compressor). About 30% of “AC won’t start” calls that Coastal Carolina Comfort responds to across South Carolina are resolved by the homeowner checks described below. The remaining 70% require professional diagnosis and repair.

Coastal Carolina Comfort provides same-day diagnostic service for systems that won’t start across Summerville, Charleston, Columbia, and the entire Lowcountry and Midlands. Our NATE-certified technicians carry the common startup components — capacitors, contactors, control boards — needed to restore your system in a single visit. Call (843) 708-8735.


Homeowner Troubleshooting: 6 Checks Before You Call

These checks are safe for any homeowner to perform and take less than 10 minutes total. Work through them in order.

Check 1: Thermostat Power and Settings

Start at the thermostat — it’s the most common cause of a system that appears dead.

Verify it has power. If the display is blank, the thermostat has lost power. Check whether it uses batteries (replace them) or is wired to the system (a tripped breaker or blown fuse at the air handler may have cut power to the thermostat).

Verify the settings. Ensure the system is set to “cool” (not “off,” “heat,” or “fan only”), the set temperature is at least 3–5°F below the current room temperature, and any scheduling or away modes aren’t overriding your settings.

Try a hard reset. Turn the thermostat completely off, wait 30 seconds, then turn it back to cooling mode. For smart thermostats, a power cycle or factory reset can resolve software glitches that prevent the system from responding.

If the thermostat appears to be working correctly — display is on, settings are correct, it shows “cooling” — but the system doesn’t respond, the issue is downstream.

Check 2: Circuit Breakers

Your AC system typically uses two circuit breakers in your main electrical panel: one for the indoor air handler and one for the outdoor condenser unit. Check both.

Look for a tripped breaker. A tripped breaker sits in the middle position — not fully “on” and not fully “off.” Push it firmly to “off” first, then back to “on.” If the breaker holds and the system starts, monitor it. If the breaker trips again within minutes, do not reset it a third time — the system has an electrical fault that requires professional diagnosis.

Check for a blown fuse at the air handler. Some air handlers have a small fuse (typically 3–5 amp) on the control board that protects the low-voltage circuit. If this fuse blows, the thermostat loses its ability to communicate with the system. This fuse is accessible inside the air handler’s front panel — but if you’re not comfortable opening the panel, skip this check and call for service.

Check 3: Emergency Shutoff Switch

Many AC installations include a wall-mounted emergency shutoff switch that looks like a standard light switch — typically located near the indoor air handler or in the utility closet. If someone accidentally flipped this switch off (during maintenance, painting, or cleaning), the entire system is disabled.

Check for a switch near the air handler that might be in the “off” position. Flip it on and see if the system responds.

Check 4: Condensate Drain Safety Switch

Many South Carolina HVAC installations include a float switch on the condensate drain line that shuts the system down when the drain line clogs and water backs up. This is a safety feature designed to prevent water damage — but it also means a simple drain clog can make your entire AC system unresponsive.

If your system has a visible float switch on the drain line (a small device with a float attached to the PVC pipe near the air handler), check whether standing water is visible in the drain pan. If the pan is full, the float switch has activated. Clearing the drain line may restore system operation. Our guide on AC leaking water inside your house covers drain line clearing in detail.

Check 5: Outdoor Disconnect Box

Near your outdoor condenser unit, there’s a disconnect box — a small metal box mounted on the wall within a few feet of the unit. This box contains either a pull-out fuse block or a breaker that supplies power specifically to the outdoor unit.

Check that the disconnect is in the “on” position and that the fuses (if applicable) haven’t blown. A blown disconnect fuse is a common cause of a system where the indoor fan runs but the outdoor unit doesn’t respond at all.

Check 6: Wait 5 Minutes After Any Reset

Modern AC systems have built-in time delays that prevent the compressor from restarting too quickly after a shutdown — rapid cycling can damage the compressor. If you’ve reset a breaker, flipped a switch, or changed the thermostat, wait at least 5 minutes before concluding the system isn’t responding. The delay is protecting your equipment.


If the Homeowner Checks Don’t Work: Common Professional Repairs

When all homeowner-accessible checks fail to restore the system, one of these mechanical or electrical failures is typically the cause.

Failed Capacitor

The run capacitor provides the electrical boost the compressor and fan motors need to start. When it fails, the motors can’t overcome their starting inertia. You might hear a clicking sound from the outdoor unit as the contactor engages, followed by a hum and then silence — the system is trying to start but the capacitor can’t deliver.

Capacitor failure is the single most common reason an AC system won’t start. It’s also one of the most affordable repairs: $150–$300 including parts and labor. In South Carolina’s long cooling season, capacitors endure more startup cycles and more sustained electrical load than in cooler climates, shortening their typical lifespan.

Burned or Pitted Contactor

The contactor is the electrical relay that connects power to the compressor and condenser fan when the thermostat calls for cooling. Over thousands of cycles, the contactor’s electrical contacts pit, corrode, and eventually fail to close or weld shut.

A failed-open contactor means the outdoor unit receives no power even though the thermostat is calling for cooling — the system appears completely dead from the outside. A welded-shut contactor means the outdoor unit runs continuously regardless of thermostat input.

Contactor replacement typically costs $150–$275.

Control Board Failure

The control board in your air handler is the system’s electronic brain — it receives the thermostat signal and coordinates the startup sequence for the blower motor, compressor, and condenser fan. When a relay on the board fails, or the board itself is damaged by a power surge, the system may receive the thermostat’s call for cooling but fail to execute the startup.

South Carolina’s summer thunderstorm pattern — particularly the daily afternoon storms across the Midlands and Lowcountry — creates frequent power surges that damage sensitive control board components. A whole-home surge protector can prevent most storm-related control board failures.

Control board replacement typically costs $300–$700 depending on the system brand and board availability.

Seized or Failed Compressor

A compressor that has seized — due to internal bearing failure, liquid slugging, or overheating — will draw extremely high amperage when it tries to start, immediately tripping the circuit breaker or the compressor’s internal overload protection. The system appears to try to start and then shuts down instantly.

This is the most serious diagnosis on this list. Compressor replacement costs $1,500–$3,000+, and on systems over 10 years old, it often triggers a conversation about whether to repair or replace the entire AC system.

Blown Transformer

The transformer steps down your home’s 240-volt power to the 24-volt signal that the thermostat uses to communicate with the system. A failed transformer means the thermostat can’t talk to the system at all — the thermostat display goes blank (if it’s not battery-powered) and the system is completely unresponsive.

Transformer replacement is typically $150–$350 and is a relatively quick repair.


When “Won’t Turn On” Is an Emergency

A dead AC system isn’t always an emergency — but in South Carolina summer, certain circumstances make it one.

Call for same-day emergency service if: indoor temperatures are climbing above 85°F with vulnerable residents in the home, you smell burning from the system even though it’s not running, the breaker trips repeatedly, or the outdoor unit is making loud buzzing or humming sounds without starting (indicating possible electrical arcing).

For Lowcountry emergencies, contact Coastal Carolina Comfort for emergency AC repair in the Lowcountry. Columbia and Midlands homeowners can reach us for emergency AC repair in Columbia.

For scheduled service, homeowners in the Summerville area can reach us for AC repair in Summerville, SC. Charleston-area homeowners can contact us for AC repair in Charleston, SC. Columbia and Midlands residents, we provide AC repair in Columbia and the Midlands.


Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Why did my AC suddenly stop working?

The most common causes of a sudden, complete AC shutdown are a tripped circuit breaker (often from a power surge during a storm), a failed capacitor (the compressor can’t start), a blown fuse at the air handler or disconnect box, or an activated condensate safety switch from a clogged drain line. Start with the homeowner troubleshooting checks above — about 30% of sudden shutdowns are resolved without a service call.

Q: My thermostat says “cooling” but nothing is happening. What’s wrong?

The thermostat is sending the cooling signal, but the system isn’t responding. This is typically caused by a tripped breaker on the outdoor unit’s circuit (the indoor fan may also be off if both breakers tripped), a failed capacitor or contactor in the outdoor unit, or a blown low-voltage fuse at the air handler. Check your breakers first. If they’re fine, you need professional diagnosis.

Q: How much does it cost to fix an AC that won’t turn on?

Costs range from $0 (if you resolve it yourself with a breaker reset or thermostat battery change) to $150–$350 for a capacitor, contactor, or transformer replacement, to $300–$700 for a control board, up to $1,500–$3,000+ for a compressor replacement. The most common professional repair — a failed capacitor — is also one of the most affordable at $150–$300. See our full AC repair cost guide for South Carolina.

Q: Should I keep trying to reset the breaker if my AC trips it?

No. Reset the breaker once. If it holds and the system runs normally, it was likely a one-time power surge event. If the breaker trips again within minutes, stop resetting it — the system has an electrical fault (ground fault in the compressor, short in the wiring, or a failed component drawing excessive current). Repeatedly resetting a tripping breaker risks electrical damage to your system and potential safety hazards.

Q: Can a power outage damage my AC system?

The outage itself rarely causes damage. The danger comes from the power surge when electricity is restored. Voltage spikes during power restoration can damage capacitors, control boards, transformers, and compressor windings. If your AC doesn’t start after a power outage, a surge-damaged component is the most likely cause. A whole-home surge protector — installed at your breaker panel — is the best long-term protection.


Related Reading


Dead AC? Don’t sweat it — literally. Coastal Carolina Comfort diagnoses why your system won’t start and gets it running, same day.

Call (843) 708-8735 for same-day AC diagnostic service across Summerville, Charleston, Columbia, and all of South Carolina.

Last Updated: March 2026

Share This Post

Get 10% Off Your First Service and a FREE Quote


More To Explore

A man in a polo shirt stands indoors, adjusting a switch on an open electrical panel while performing AC troubleshooting. The room features wooden floors and a hallway visible in the background.
Air Conditioning

My AC Won’t Turn On: Troubleshooting Before You Call a Technician

My AC Won’t Turn On: Troubleshooting Before You Call a Technician When your AC system won’t turn on at all — no fan, no compressor, no response to thermostat changes — the cause is either an interruption in the electrical supply reaching the system (tripped breaker, blown fuse, safety switch activation, thermostat failure) or a failure of a startup component within the system itself (dead capacitor, burned contactor, failed control board, or seized compressor). About 30% of “AC won’t start” calls that Coastal Carolina Comfort responds to across South Carolina are resolved by the homeowner checks described below. The remaining 70% require professional diagnosis and repair. Coastal Carolina Comfort provides same-day diagnostic service for systems that won’t start across Summerville, Charleston, Columbia, and the entire Lowcountry and Midlands. Our NATE-certified technicians carry the common startup components — capacitors, contactors, control boards — needed to restore your system in a single visit. Call (843) 708-8735. Homeowner Troubleshooting: 6 Checks Before You Call These checks are safe for any homeowner to perform and take less than 10 minutes total. Work through them in order. Check 1: Thermostat Power and Settings Start at the thermostat — it’s the most common cause of a system that appears dead. Verify it has power. If the display is blank, the thermostat has lost power. Check whether it uses batteries (replace them) or is wired to the system (a tripped breaker or blown fuse at the air handler may have cut power to the thermostat). Verify the settings. Ensure the system is set to “cool” (not “off,” “heat,” or “fan only”), the set temperature is at least 3–5°F below the current room temperature, and any scheduling or away modes aren’t overriding your settings. Try a hard reset. Turn the thermostat completely off, wait 30 seconds, then turn it back to cooling mode. For smart thermostats, a power cycle or factory reset can resolve software glitches that prevent the system from responding. If the thermostat appears to be working correctly — display is on, settings are correct, it shows “cooling” — but the system doesn’t respond, the issue is downstream. Check 2: Circuit Breakers Your AC system typically uses two circuit breakers in your main electrical panel: one for the indoor air handler and one for the outdoor condenser unit. Check both. Look for a tripped breaker. A tripped breaker sits in the middle position — not fully “on” and not fully “off.” Push it firmly to “off” first, then back to “on.” If the breaker holds and the system starts, monitor it. If the breaker trips again within minutes, do not reset it a third time — the system has an electrical fault that requires professional diagnosis. Check for a blown fuse at the air handler. Some air handlers have a small fuse (typically 3–5 amp) on the control board that protects the low-voltage circuit. If this fuse blows, the thermostat loses its ability to communicate with the system. This fuse is accessible inside the air handler’s front panel — but if you’re not comfortable opening the panel, skip this check and call for service. Check 3: Emergency Shutoff Switch Many AC installations include a wall-mounted emergency shutoff switch that looks like a standard light switch — typically located near the indoor air handler or in the utility closet. If someone accidentally flipped this switch off (during maintenance, painting, or cleaning), the entire system is disabled. Check for a switch near the air handler that might be in the “off” position. Flip it on and see if the system responds. Check 4: Condensate Drain Safety Switch Many South Carolina HVAC installations include a float switch on the condensate drain line that shuts the system down when the drain line clogs and water backs up. This is a safety feature designed to prevent water damage — but it also means a simple drain clog can make your entire AC system unresponsive. If your system has a visible float switch on the drain line (a small device with a float attached to the PVC pipe near the air handler), check whether standing water is visible in the drain pan. If the pan is full, the float switch has activated. Clearing the drain line may restore system operation. Our guide on AC leaking water inside your house covers drain line clearing in detail. Check 5: Outdoor Disconnect Box Near your outdoor condenser unit, there’s a disconnect box — a small metal box mounted on the wall within a few feet of the unit. This box contains either a pull-out fuse block or a breaker that supplies power specifically to the outdoor unit. Check that the disconnect is in the “on” position and that the fuses (if applicable) haven’t blown. A blown disconnect fuse is a common cause of a system where the indoor fan runs but the outdoor unit doesn’t respond at all. Check 6: Wait 5 Minutes After Any Reset Modern AC systems have built-in time delays that prevent the compressor from restarting too quickly after a shutdown — rapid cycling can damage the compressor. If you’ve reset a breaker, flipped a switch, or changed the thermostat, wait at least 5 minutes before concluding the system isn’t responding. The delay is protecting your equipment. If the Homeowner Checks Don’t Work: Common Professional Repairs When all homeowner-accessible checks fail to restore the system, one of these mechanical or electrical failures is typically the cause. Failed Capacitor The run capacitor provides the electrical boost the compressor and fan motors need to start. When it fails, the motors can’t overcome their starting inertia. You might hear a clicking sound from the outdoor unit as the contactor engages, followed by a hum and then silence — the system is trying to start but the capacitor can’t deliver. Capacitor failure is the single most common reason an AC system won’t start. It’s also one of the most affordable repairs: $150–$300 including parts and labor. In South Carolina’s long cooling season, capacitors endure more

A close-up view of an air conditioner evaporator coil covered with a thick layer of ice and frost, indicating a malfunction or freezing issue.
Air Conditioning

AC Frozen Evaporator Coil: Why Your Air Conditioner Ices Up in Humid SC Weather

AC Frozen Evaporator Coil: Why Your Air Conditioner Ices Up in Humid SC Weather A frozen evaporator coil occurs when the coil’s surface temperature drops below 32°F and moisture from your indoor air freezes on contact, building a layer of ice that blocks airflow and prevents heat absorption. The most common causes are restricted airflow from a clogged filter or dirty coil, low refrigerant charge from a leak, and blower motor failure that reduces air volume across the coil. In South Carolina’s high-humidity environment, frozen coils are both more common and more damaging than in drier climates — the heavy moisture content in Lowcountry and Midlands air means ice builds faster and produces more water when it melts. Coastal Carolina Comfort diagnoses and repairs frozen evaporator coils across Summerville, Charleston, Columbia, and all of South Carolina. Our NATE-certified technicians identify the root cause — not just thaw the ice — and provide upfront pricing before any repair begins. Call (843) 708-8735. How a Frozen Coil Damages Your AC System A frozen evaporator coil isn’t just a temporary inconvenience — it creates a cascade of problems that can damage multiple components if the system continues running. The compressor is at greatest risk. Under normal operation, liquid refrigerant enters the evaporator coil, absorbs heat, and exits as a gas before returning to the compressor. When the coil freezes, this heat exchange stops. Liquid refrigerant passes through the coil without vaporizing and reaches the compressor in liquid form. Compressors are designed to pump gas, not liquid. Liquid refrigerant entering the compressor — called liquid slugging — can crack valves, damage pistons, and cause catastrophic compressor failure. A compressor replacement typically costs $1,500–$3,000+. Water damage when the ice melts. A frozen coil accumulates a surprising amount of ice. When the system shuts off or the ice begins to melt, the resulting water can easily overwhelm the drain pan — especially if the drain line is also partially clogged (a common combination in South Carolina). Water overflows onto floors, into ceilings, or through walls. Read our guide on AC leaking water inside your house for immediate steps if you’re already dealing with water. Reduced system life. Repeated freeze-thaw cycles stress the coil fins, degrade the coil’s protective coating, and can eventually cause refrigerant leaks in the coil itself — one of the most expensive AC repairs. The 5 Causes of Frozen Evaporator Coils in South Carolina 1. Clogged Air Filter This is the most common cause — and the most preventable. A clogged filter restricts the volume of warm air passing over the evaporator coil. Without sufficient warm air, the coil’s temperature drops below the freezing point. Moisture in the air freezes on contact, and the ice layer further restricts airflow, accelerating the freeze. In South Carolina, where pet dander, pollen, dust, and high humidity all contribute to faster filter loading, a filter that might last 90 days in a drier climate may need replacement every 30 days during peak cooling season. The fix: Replace the filter, turn the system off for 2–3 hours to allow complete thawing, then restart. If the system runs normally and doesn’t refreeze, the filter was the sole cause. If ice returns within 24 hours, there’s an additional underlying issue. 2. Low Refrigerant From a Leak Low refrigerant charge causes the evaporator coil’s temperature to drop below normal operating range. When the coil is too cold, moisture freezes on its surface instead of condensing into liquid and draining away. The ice insulates the coil, making it even colder, and the freeze accelerates until the coil is completely encased. This is the most common mechanical cause of frozen coils, and it requires professional repair. A technician will thaw the coil, test for leaks, repair the leak source, and recharge the system to manufacturer specifications. Simply adding refrigerant without fixing the leak guarantees the problem will return. In South Carolina’s coastal environment, refrigerant line corrosion from salt air is a significant contributor to leaks — particularly on homes within a few miles of Charleston Harbor, James Island, or the Isle of Palms. 3. Dirty Evaporator Coil Even with regular filter changes, the evaporator coil accumulates dust, biological growth, and particulate matter over time — especially in South Carolina’s humid environment where mold and mildew thrive on the constantly damp coil surface. A dirty coil insulates itself from the warm air passing over it. The coil can’t absorb enough heat, its temperature drops, and the same freeze cycle begins. The difference is that a dirty-coil freeze develops more gradually than a low-refrigerant freeze — you might notice declining performance for weeks before ice becomes visible. The fix: Professional coil cleaning. This requires access to the indoor unit, coil-specific cleaning solution, and careful handling to avoid damaging the delicate aluminum fins. Coil cleaning is typically included in comprehensive maintenance visits that prevent frozen coils and costs $150–$300 as a standalone service. 4. Blower Motor Failure or Reduction The blower motor moves air across the evaporator coil. If it fails entirely, airflow stops completely and the coil freezes rapidly. A partially failing motor — running at reduced speed due to worn bearings, a failing capacitor, or a winding issue — moves insufficient air, causing a slower but equally damaging freeze. In multi-speed systems, a motor stuck on low speed may provide enough airflow for mild days but insufficient volume on high-demand days, creating intermittent freezing that’s harder to diagnose. 5. Collapsed or Blocked Return Ductwork If the return duct — the large duct that carries warm room air back to the air handler — is crushed, disconnected, or severely blocked, the volume of air reaching the evaporator coil drops below the minimum threshold. This can happen when stored items are placed on flex duct in an attic, when a duct joint separates due to age or poor installation, or when a return vent is blocked by furniture or closed. This cause is more common in homes with ductwork routed through attics — a standard

SCHEDULE A $0 FREE SERVICE CALL AND GET A FREE QUOTE


GET A FREE ESTIMATE and schedule service


GET A FREE ESTIMATE and schedule service